Showing posts with label Life in Madrid. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Life in Madrid. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Nunca es adiós, siempre es hasta luego.

Well damn, Madrid, how do I begin.  What an unreal year.  I don't even know how to gather my thoughts to thank you for my time here, so I'll do the best I can in the only way I've ever really mastered: making a list.
  1. I came to Madrid thinking that I was a completely solid person.  Someone who had experienced ups & downs, and discovered who they were in the process.  Well, no.  Wrong.  The emotions that I've felt in Spain have blown anything else out of the water.  The highs were chart topping.  The moments surrounded by friends who truly knew me, the nights that turned into mornings (cliche but true), the trips to new cities that opened my eyes in new ways... It all brought my to my knees with joy.  I was baffled by how incredible one city could make me feel. How at home I could be there.  But then... then there were the lows.  Being disconnected from family, friends, and my past when the unthinkable happened humbled me to no end.  Watching people hurt and not being able to help forced me to really dig into a part of me I hadn't met before.  The part of me that needed to ask for help.  Learning that I don't have to go-it-alone was one of the biggest lessons I've had to date.  Madrid, you bastard, you've made me emotional. Thank you.
  2. I've always had great friends, but a number that I can probably count on one hand.  People who I've truly felt close to and comfortable with.  I grew to assume that this was just the type of person I was; someone who knew many but got close to few; someone guarded.  Then I moved to Madrid.  The people I've grown to love over the past year are honestly some of the best I've ever known.  They're strong, independent, caring, and appreciate the same things I do.  I can say that I'm leaving Spain with 10 new lifelong friends. You mujeres know who you are. Besos.
  3. Having all of Europe at my fingertips is a privilege I've always dreamed of.  I've known the most expensive part of European travel is the flight from the states, and soon after arriving in Spain, I realized how inexpensive it really is to see the world.  It's as though the rest of the world understands the importance of travel and the US hasn't quite grasped it yet.  I can pay $200 for a round trip flight to D.C. plus whatever ungodly cost for hotel, or I can spend 40€ for a round trip flight to Portugal plus 20€ for two nights in a hostel, where I'll later make lifelong friends.  Not only the places I've been able to visit this year but the people I've had the privilege of meeting makes traveling that much more attractive.  My eyes have opened.
  4. Living minimally is a new quality I'm finding myself adopting, and likewise something I now look for in others.  Not that I want to be able to drop everything and run away, but that I need to place the uttermost importance on my relationships and not on my belongings.  Starting from the day I started preparing for my trip to Spain until present, I've been gradually stripping myself of the need for material possessions.  When I no longer need something, I pass it onto a friend or donate it. Things weigh you down. In every aspect.  The nooks and crannies of my suitcases are filled with postcards and ticket stubs.  The boxes I have packed away in my parents basement for the last year aren't overflowing with random goods, but rather everything that represents the things I love; photos with friends, mugs from my favorite cafes that I've accidentally walked out with, figurines that once sat on the shelf at my grandparent's house.  If it doesn't have a place in my heart, then it has no place in my home.
  5. Madrid, and my wonderful CEIP Antonio Hernandez, you have forced me out of my scheduled life.  I've been the queen of my planner for years now, and I've always found peace in knowing when things would happen and in the certain nature they would take place.  Whelp, out the window with that.  I've been tossed into an uncountable number of situations where thinking on my toes is the only option.  People don't work on a clock here, let alone a planner.  Showing up to school and learning that I'd be going on a field trip / subbing a class I've never had before / winging a full day of lessons / any other scenario became a norm.  Attempting to get banking or citizenship appointments done transformed into a gamble.  Meeting with my landlord over wine, chasing people through buildings, and showing up on time for a meeting that wouldn't be starting for another 30 minutes no longer shocked me.  Word of advice to anyone traveling to Spain: expect the unexpected, and throw a 30 minute buffer on anything you're trying to accomplish.
  6. I've realized how important celebrating is this year.  This city has so much pride.  Be it gay pride (and wow, do they have a lot of it, especially in Malasaña), city pride (HALA MADRID!), fútbol pride, or personal pride, they take joy in all of it.  Everyone stops and soaks it in.  Doesn't matter the situation.  When I told my school that my sister was pregnant, the entire room stood still, waiting for details, beaming with excitement.  When I went out for Pride Week, no one was on their phones, everyone was laughing and embracing; enjoying the moment.  When Real Madrid or Atleticó de Madrid were playing, the young and old came out to sing in the streets.  Happiness truly is contagious. 
Over the past year, I've fallen head over heels with the world and the people in it.  The flow of life in Spain has slowed me down.  Given me time to stop and look around me more often; to breathe it all in.  An opportunity that most of us rush past on a daily basis.  Walking slowly down the street and listening to the chatter of people I've never met,  the hum of cars down cobblestone streets, the clinking of glasses, the bouncing of a ball in the playground near my apartment.  It's all so much more beautiful than we realize.  Simplicity is key here.  Learn to love the little things and the big things will fall into place.  The biggest pitfall of my year abroad is that it has come to a close, but, don't you dare think that my adventure has ended.  Just heading into the next one.

With a full heart, I pack my final boxes.  Next stop, being Aunt Molly. Te quiero Madrid, para siempre.












Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Running: Good for the Soul?

Learning to enjoy running has been a long and difficult process, that is no where near over.  After moving to Madrid, I quickly learned that regular skating would no longer be in my repertoire.  With every rink being a hefty commute away, and lacking time dedicated to figure skaters,  my first passion had to head to the back burner for a little while.  I've always found a certain peace while on the ice, especially during solo practice times, so I began to yearn for the same endorphin-rush inducing outlet.  Enter: running.


Now wait, pause, flashback...  What led me into a lower impact sport initially (yes, running... way less impact than skating), was a hip surgery I had almost a year ago now.  I had been abusing my body for years with too much high impact skating, and surgery became the last resort.  Recovery was a long journey, much more difficult than I could've ever imagined, but it opened my eyes to the idea of cross-training; the importance of treating our bodies well, and the benefits of doing so. During my recovery, I spent a lot of time strengthening my body with stretching, weights, bike riding, and eventually, running.  

Does this picture show off how happy I was at the time?
So, with a fixed up hip, an idea of how to treat my body, and a love for skating, I moved to Madrid, and found all three of these being compromised.  My hip killed from all of the walking and the lack of places to continue my physical therapy, I had no gym membership and limitless food & drink at my fingertips, and not a rink in sight that offered what I needed (time & proximity).  I knew that something had to give but I wasn't sure of what and where.


I had watched my father become a fantastic runner over the years, and had always been jealous of his dedication to it, especially because it could be done aaaanywhere.  So after a few weeks of dilly-dallying, I decided it was time to get started.  I did what any logical person would do, and signed up for a 10k that was 6 weeks away, without any training under my belt.  I quickly whipped myself into shape, and by the time I was a week out from race day, I found myself feeling somewhat prepared.  Each time I ran, I struggled through the first kilometer, and then I would kind of sink into a groove; into a place where my thoughts went silent and legs entered autopilot.  A place similar to what I would find on the ice.  Race day came, and I finished under my projected time, with a smile on my face.  I was pleasantly surprised with how good it felt to be part of something, like a race.  While still a solo sport, there's much more of a social component to running than skating has ever had.  I liked the quiet camaraderie and the unspoken connected as each kilometer ticked by.  I was ultimately shocked by how satisfying it all was.

Breaking a Guinness World Record in Madrid!
Madrid turned out to be the perfect place for running.  The winter climate settles around 45º at night, the city has a perfect pairing of hills and long stretches, and with headphones in and pounding feet, people don't tend to stop you for conversation on the street.  And even more perfectly, no matter how much it makes my legs burn and my chest pound, it makes my brain slow down.  At the end of the day, the hardest thing for me has always been to unwind, and rather than my favorite pastime of distracting myself, I'm finding much more comfort in becoming at peace with myself.  So, as a toootally sane person (haha..) I've somehow signed myself up for another 10k in 8 weeks and a 1/2 marathon in 12 weeks.  Let's go!

Friday, October 10, 2014

My Life: Underground


Ok, so due to the fact that I'm currently sweating on the metro, I found it fitting to break down how I feel about it. 
So I'll start by saying the metro is amazing, and particularly so in Madrid. Routes are simple, and rarely do I have to make more than one connection. I also have yet to be more than a 15 minute walk from a stop. All of that is incredible. I could even get super and cheesy and say, "I've got the city at my fingertips!" I hop on the metro near my house and 45 minutes later I hop off a few blocks from my school, wowee! 

That being said, I am so tired of being sweaty on the metro. I'm tired of getting OTHER peoples sweat on me on the metro (especially considering I pass the metro stop for the Ebola contaminated hospital daily on my way to work). I'm tired of the cathartic sensation that comes over me in each of the just-a-little-too-warm cars. And the persistent kink in my neck from constantly giving in to this sleepy feeling. 


I'm fed up with the metro cars stopping in between stations and just sitting. Especially considering the number of times I've come running down the stairs and had the doors shut in front of me. I mean, you won't sit at my stop for more than ten seconds but you'll take a break between platforms for a solid 2-3 minutes?! 

[And currently, as a punishment for complaining while on said metro, I have the lovely blinking message that, while sitting for 10+ minutes, making me later and later for work, says, "por averia en linea. el servicio de viajeros no se presta con normalidad. disculpen las molestias. gracias." A break in the line, REALLY?!]

And the worst part is, there is literally nothing I can do. I am completely and utterly dependent on this metro to get me from point A to point B on a daily basis. I live in a central area and have a handful of friends houses I can stroll to, but in terms of work, private tutoring, and making it to the rink, I'm a slave to MadridMetro. I've realized how completely spoiled I was with my access to a car at home. I guess the grass isn't always greener? 

I used to long for better public transport in good ol' Portsmouth, New Hampshire, but now I find myself daydreaming about quick commutes in the privacy of my own car. 

I met a guy in the town I teach in who was talking about loving his visits to the center, and how close it was. I laughed and said, yeah 45 minutes or more in the oven/metro, and was responded to with the simple answer of, no, 15 minutes by car. 15 minutes?! That's at least 45 more minutes of sleep I could be having EVERY DAY!

So, I either need a car, a friend with a car, or to make friends with said guy who has a car so that I can indulge in the quiet and breezy sensation of being in the comfy, padded, rounded seats of an actual, private car.  

So all of you reading back home, or from wherever, with a car parked outside or down the block, please, I beg of you, take a ride and think of me.  Feel the breeze in your hair, and the silence around you.  Breathe air that is (mostly) your own, and live without fear of contracting ebola from feverish looking, sneezing passengers.  Grip the wheel and choose your own speed.  Make your commute, YOUR commute.  God dammit, its completely irrational to lust after a car as much as I am right now… 

I guess getting to live in central Madrid is a fair trade for not having a car, I just thoroughly enjoy an excuse to complain. Especially when I can't physically see the person I'm complaining to rolling their eyes and becoming visibly disinterested.  So, sorry to my readers! I swear I've got some good stuff coming this weekend!

Monday, October 6, 2014

I'm Back! Lo Siento!


In lieu of having a brief blogging break, I have not had a break from the chaos of relocating abroad.  Though the chaos has been a mix of good and bad things, I am burnt out on the most basic of issues that I am continually facing here.  The fact that every time I try to change the water bill into my name I am faced with Spanish speakers on the phone who, upon being told that my Spanish is not great, will only speak FASTER (because that obviously will help me to understand what is being said).  And this catapults into my landlord –who I did not realize lives in COLUMBIA- spewing into the phone nonsense about the water bill not being in my name (even when I repeatedly ask for him to email me, because, I can’t speak fucking Spanish on the phone!). All the while, attempting to deal with all of this while having ZERO access to Internet except for the shitty data I have on my phone here.  I think in a past life I must have upset the internet gods because I am constantly dealing with an alarming amount of bullshit from companies who claim to have great customer rapport and speedy service (Comcast and Orange, this ones for you).  Despite setting my Internet up 3 weeks ago, I have yet to have a visit from a technician.  And of course, this technician literally plugs in the router that I’ve had sitting on my floor for almost a month, and then calls Orange and says, “Ok, turn on the service!” Why I can’t do this myself is baffling.  And every time I call I get an identical response of, “Looks like the deadline for getting it set up is approaching so you can expect a call soon!”  Clearly the word “deadline” has a looser translation in Spanish than it does in English.  Luckily (luckily?), I’ve had a lot of other chaos to distract me from these daily life annoyances.  Since my last post I settled into my new apartment, took an amazing weekend trip to San Sebastian, started working in a bilingual Spanish school, and went on my first date with a Spanish guy.


First off, VACATION! From the vacation I was already having… My Madrileña friend Rocio had invited me to go to San Sebastian with her the last week in September, and then about 30 friends that are also working as Auxiliars in Madrid invited me to do the same. So, YAHTZEE! I could say yes to both! The trip started off with my train buddy missing our 8am departure, and ended with the same friend losing her phone and us then tracking it through the not-so-scenic areas of the city, where we promptly found it ditched in a trash can next to a guy who had been the blinking dot on our map… The middle part though was unreal.  The scenic views, the pintxos, the sandy beaches, the WINE, and of course, the company.  We spent our days sunbathing, touring, and hiking, and our nights drinking with our toes either in the sand or in heels dancing to our hearts content.  Coming home from this trip was hard because it marked not only the end of a beautiful getaway, but also the end of spending our days together having fun. It meant the beginning of our jobs in schools scattered in an hour radius around Madrid.  Nonetheless, we had to start this chapter eventually.


On October 1, I officially started my career as an Auxiliar, aka an English Language and Culture Assistant.  Though I only work 16 hours of classes/week, my schedule is Tuesday-Friday from 9am-4pm (talk about a long lunch…). I woke up on my first day, headed out of my apartment bright and early at 7:30am, boarded a nearly empty metro, and made my first (of what will be many) 1-hour commutes to work.  Due to the fact that the sunrises around 8/8:30am now, I like to consider my hour commute to be another hour of sleep, and when I stagger out of the metro at 8:30am, my day is actually starting.  With literally no idea of what I was walking into, I wandered into a familiar feeling school surrounded by palm trees, murals, and hoards of children screaming and giggling in a slur of Spanish and laughter.  I found myself in the teacher’s lounge where I met another American auxiliar who had worked in this school the year prior.  Shortly thereafter, we were joined by a third Irish auxiliar, and finally, by our director, Pat.  Within 30 seconds of meeting her, I knew I would grow to love her and the English team at the school.  She let us know that the fourth auxiliar was having surgery and wouldn’t arrive until November at the earliest, and for that reason our schedules would be jumbled for the first month.  So I’ve been wishing on shooting stars, sleeping with a spoon under my pillow, and learning to pray, so that I might not have such a wonky day full of breaks that are far too long.  My lunches range from 2-3 hours in length and are followed by one 45-minute class before I can go home.  And some mornings I teach for an hour, then have an hour and a half break before one more hour of teaching, followed by 2 hours lunch.  The term “condensed schedule” has the equivalent of winning the jackpot to an auxiliar, and of course, I don’t tend to ever have the lottery-winning kind of luck that some of my friends are blessed with.


Regardless of the not-so-desirable schedule, I lucked out with two awesome teachers to work with.  I spend about two-thirds of my time with Miss Mary-Jo (the English version of her Spanish name, Maria Jose) in two third grade classrooms, and the other third of my time with Miss Africa in two fifth grade classrooms.  Mary-Jo reminds me of teachers I have had in the past, who laugh and smile and throw their hands on their hips when they’re annoyed.  She plays games, is patient, and seems very human, which is sometimes a hard quality to find in a teacher.  Africa is young (I think younger than me) and brings a fresh vibe to her classroom.  She uses a lot of the teaching techniques that I remember learning in school.  I was impressed by the energy both of them, along with the other English teachers, bring to the school.  After hearing countless stories of teachers who only work out of the textbook, it was refreshing to see teachers who cared about their students.  Alongside my teachers, I teach the students language arts, science, and art, all in English.  The array of children is shockingly similar to those I’ve taught in the states: they are kind, witty, curious, mischievous, funny, and unique. Some need more help than others, and some need more work than others.  The kids who finish first and those plotted to finish last are equally likely to become a distraction to those in the middle.  I’ll be excited to see what the teachers decide to implement for behavior control in the classroom and how much I’ll get to experiment with from my work at home.  All in all, I have an interesting year ahead.


Back to the home front, I settled nicely into my new apartment.  All it took was two exhausting trips to Ikea, several visits to Chinos that were crammed with junk (Chino is the, I SWEAR, official term for shops that are the equivalent to a 7-Eleven or Rite-Aid back home), and a few stops into the funky shops on my street that I’ve already grown to love (Hema, Tiger, Høsten, and so many more). With a minimally furnished apartment, a terrace above a wood fired pizza oven (hello to never needing air fresheners!), a handful of friends living within a 3 block radius, and internet (hopefully) on the way, I’m starting to feel a lot more at home in this far-from-home place.


Now, onto what you’ve all been actually reading for: my first Spanish date. The week before leaving for San Sebastian, my friends and I all felt that it was utterly necessary to go out every night as a final hurrah in Madrid before school started.  Our first stop of the week was Independance, a Madrid club that hosts a weekly event called “Fuckin’ Mondays.”  The name should have been a warning enough that the night might take on a mind of its own, but we paid our 5€ anyways.  Inside there was a lovely pit for dancing that was covered in broken glass, and two bars with lines that were far too long. Alongside my friend who was equally smitten with Spanish men, I elbowed myself to the front of the bar.  Within moments we were both pounced on by Argentinian men. Overwhelmed by their slurred Spanish and the strong drink in my hand, I backed off and motioned over towards a safe corner of the bar. In my recluse I sipped on my vodka-something, laughed at the drunken dance moves in the pit, and tried to decide what to make of the night.  Enter David (dah-veed): tall, quiet, and seemingly innocuous.  Feeling the effects from my mystery drink, I was given an entirely new Spanish confidence.  I was suddenly fluent (or so I thought). In hindsight, I think he was laughing because I was making zero sense, and not because I was correctly conjugating verbs into witty jokes.  We chatted for either 5 minutes or 30, still not sure.  All I remember is suddenly realizing how late it was and how tired I had become.  I gave him my number, hopped into a cab alongside my friend, and slept until noon.  I awoke to an entirely Spanish text, which roughly translated to, “are you who I am looking for? I spoke to a girl last night and I want to see her again.” Uhhhh, maybe? Sure? I should also admit here that I didn’t know his name, and I wouldn’t find it out until we had already been on 2 dates and I texted to ask how he spelled his name.  Due to the fact that he isn’t an idiot and his name is fucking DAVID, he caught on immediately to the fact that the issue was not the spelling, and was actually my lack of memory from god damn stupid fuckin’ Mondays.  Back to the good stuff… We met up two days later, and shockingly, did not recognize each other immediately.  This was either because we were drunk when we met, because I had a quarter life crisis and dyed my hair brown the next day, or a combination of the two.  Likely the latter.  We spoke primarily in Spanish, with spurts of English, or better yet, Spanglish.  I learned that he grew up near Santander (the northern coast of Spain) in a pueblo with around 30 people.  I found out that his shaggy hair used to be a ponytail that matched his parents and siblings, but being a “city boy” he was the first to cut it off.  I realized we were both fans of cold weather and low-key nights.  And I also came to the realization that communication is infinitely harder when your native language isn’t shared.  After two dates, I don’t know that we will be able to navigate this cross-cultural relationship, but my god, is it fun to figure out.  The number of things that were lost in translation, or perdido en traducción, was staggering, but the number of constants between languages and countries was surprising.  David has promised a picture the next time we meet that will either be the first of many or the one reminder of my first Spanish date. Either way, entwining my life in every aspect of Spanish life has been a rollercoaster and I’ve only been here one month. 

So, for a corny ending to a post that started in a sour rant, here’s a little Mark Twain…

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.  So throw off throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."

Monday, September 15, 2014

Hoy es Domingoooo!

I'm finally getting to kick back (a little, tiny, tiny bit) and enjoy Madrid.  One week from now I think I will be even more relaxed, but for now, I'll gladly take what this Sunday Funday gave me: Peace of mind.  I was initially very skeptical as to whether or not I would be able to make this town my own, but I'm starting to find the nooks and crannies that I fit into perfectly.
Attempting to navigate Rastro's crowds
I started the day off by, most importantly, sleeping in.  Afterwards, I wandered down to El Rasto, one of the largest flea markets around.  I cannot even describe the magnitude of people that were crammed into the streets of the La Latina and Embajadores neighborhoods.  In the future, if I want to get aaaaanything done at El Rastro, sleeping in won't be a luxury that I can enjoy.  Stalls were filled with vintage clothing, tapestries, jewelry, leather bags, and endless amounts of various knick knacks.  Definitely will be somewhere I'll return once I'm happily in my own home.

The day before my adventure to El Rastro, I did some thrift shopping in my new neighborhood, Malasaña. Mercado Fuencarral was one of the funkier places I found.  Vendors rented out different stalls within the three level Mercado, and most were refurbished or original vintage pieces.  Between Mercado Fuencarral, El Rastro, and the magnitude of other Tiendas de Segundo Mano, I might actually come up with a pretty fun wardrobe here.

The entryway to Retiro
Back to the Sunday Funday adventure… Ran into a million and a half people from my teach abroad program while we were still wandering the thrifty streets, and decided we needed to get into the polar opposite of the area we were in.  We ran into a local grocery, bought some fruit, salad, cheese, and wine, and made our way to the Parque del Buen Retiro. Despite forgetting blankets, we laid in the grass for hours.  Our group fluctuated in size as people joined and departed, and we happily enjoyed our quiet afternoon solstice. This park was easily the hardest place to pry myself out of since arriving in Madrid.  It reminded me of the ease of life back home at my parents lake house.  The kind of place where you could sit around for the entire day without a worry (which I currently seem to have too many of).

Ended the day by attempting to get into an Irish sports bar to watch the Patriots with one of my fellow Boston-lovers (that lovely lady in the picture below…), only to discover that they weren't open on Sundays.  The search will continue for the New England sports venue, but I'll save that to be an adventure for another day. For now, more wandering! And more tapa-ing and clara-ing (clara: god's gift to Spanish beer… a splash of lemon soda in the shitty local draft)!

Lauren in all her glory


Friday, September 12, 2014

Donde esta mi casa?!

Apartment hunting is normally something I enjoy. You get to meet with people, see a bunch of properties, pick one out, write a check, and boom! You're home! To say my feelings have changed about the hunt in the past four days would be a harsh understatement.  In Madrid, half of the people showing the properties don't speak a word of English, and there seems to be no set standard on how much a deposit is, whats included, and the level of cleanliness is that constitutes "livable."

Thus far I've viewed:

  • A beautiful apartment with a bed in the wall, but its windows look out on a nearly basement level view of concrete.
  • A huge studio great light that had so much built up dirt you could barely see what color the floor was, and was situation across the street from a gigantic gay club. My favorite part of this one was the landlord trying to explain to me (in Spanish nonetheless) that during the day it was tranquil and luminous, but at night you had to seal the windows and use sound proof curtains to keep the club noise out…
  • A funky attic apartment with a window in every room (unheard of), that was on a fifth floor with only narrow staircases (no elevator…) and no air conditioning.
  • A tiny apartment that, if I were able to do a split, I wouldn't have enough room to do so.  
  • A fantastic studio with a lofted bed, spanish style tiled bathroom, hydromassage shower, and everything else wonderful that a tiny studio can have.  But that later changed the date of the rental on me, and said I would have to wait two extra weeks to move in. Argh.
I'm sure more than half of my complaints seem like I'm being too picky, but after spending the past 10 days living out of a suitcase and the past 5 days living in a 62 year old woman's home, I'm getting restless and quick to snap.  

Unfortunately, for now, all I have is a rant. No resolution yet. I'll keep ya all posted.

Monday, September 8, 2014

Mi Casa es Tu Casa

First day of much-needed spanish classes today! Aaand second day of my home stay with Maria Rosa. As of right now, every day that I've had in Spain has been significantly more interesting than the last.  Whenever I think I have my bearings, the rug is pulled from under me.  I think that all of this disorientation is creating a sense of self-reliance that I wouldn't have been able to forge on my own.  I'm honing my ability to make the best of any situation.

Yesterday, I stuffed the rest of my belongings back into my suitcases, shimmied big-red (my gigantic wheeled bag) into a packed elevator, and hustled down 7 flights of stairs with a human-sized backpack to meet my bag on floor 0.  I walked out from the stairwell to complete and utter chaos.  70 auxiliaries stood with their entire lives in suitcases waiting to meet their home stay families.  Significantly winded, like, panting-can't-even-speak-english-winded, I immediately heard my name.  Maria Rosa, my 5 foot tall, 62 year old señora, waved Morgan (a super sweet Alberta native) and myself to the door, grabbed me by my bicep, and dragged me out to the taxi stand.  She unsurprisingly spoke 100 mile/minute Spanish and refused to slow down or give up on us responding to her with our limited vocabularies. Needless to say, we were overwhelmed.

This angle actually makes the room look big! Woo!
Upon getting our multitude of bags out of the taxi and into her apartment, we were cozied into a teeny-tiny room, instructed to unpack our suitcases, and told lunch would be in 30 minutes.  I think my immediate reaction and response to Morgan upon the door shutting was, "what just happened?!" We quickly unloaded into the the small closet and slid our suitcases under the bed, simultaneously debriefing one another on our lives.  Quickly becoming friends and comrades, we decided to embrace the situation we had on our hands.  Lunch was a traditional meal of ensalada rusa (potato salad with peas, carrots, peppers, tuna, eggs, vinegar, and mayonnaise), a leafy salad, fried pork (I think thats what it was?), and watermelon.  At the table, only spanish was allowed, which was hard for us, but clearly more difficult for our down-the-hall japanese roommate.  We did our best to clear our plates, and retired for siesta. I slept like a baby.

Olives on olives on olives at Mercado San Miquel.
Leaving the house at 5pm, Morgan and I walked the streets of Madrid for 6+ hours, stopping only for a glass of wine or tapa when we needed to refuel.  We wandered through nearly every neighborhood of the city, falling in love with the livelihood of La Latina, the bars of Lavapies, the hustle-bustle of Sol, and calming quiet of our own neighborhood for the next two weeks.  El Mercado San Miguel quickly became a new favorite for me with its wide array of seafood, wine, fruit, olives, and much more.  I indulged in a green olive stuffed with smoked salmon and feta cheese, and washed it all down with a glass of Torres chard.  Hours later I had a glass of Tinto de Verano, a refreshing and simplified version of sangria, which was, of course, served with a tapa portion of ensalada rusa.  We finished the night with yet more wine and a staggering plateful of fresh grilled vegetables with sautéed goat cheese (STOP IT, I know, too delicious).  

Oysters!
With nearly blistered feet, we limped home with full bellies and a whirlwind of initial impressions of Madrid.  That night (last night), I did not sleep like a baby, but rather tossed and turned for hours.  This city is either going to take me in with open arms or chew me up and spit me out, and there is no way to figure out which will be my fate until I decide to entwine myself with it.  Now is the time for new beginnings.

Saturday, September 6, 2014

Bienvenidos a…. ¡Madrid!

Whelp, I finally made it to Spain. Despite sleepless travel, dry airplane food, long waits in airports, and a clammy bus ride, I survived.  I'd be lying if I said its all been sunshine and rainbows since I arrived, but, I MADE IT.  Sure its been 95+ degrees outside, I've been jet lagged, and my hotel shares a terrace with a construction zone, but, I GOD DAMN MADE IT.  I'm trying my very hardest to be patient.  I know that the Madrid I fell in love with 11 months ago is around here somewhere, its just hiding behind sleep deprivation, dehydration, and a pile of concrete blocks.

Plaza Mayor at dusk.

In the past 72 hours, I've met about 60 new people (about 6 of whom I've remember the names of…), sat through several hours of presentations regarding becoming a Madrileña, had lunch at the Atlético de Madrid Futbol Stadium, and realized the perils of trying to get anything done during siesta. I've seen someone's life get turned upside down (in the form of a pick pocketing), seen a bus fill up like a clown car, and watched someone dance such a breathtaking flamenco that they were in visible emotional pain.

 I'm just now realizing that this city is going to give me a run for my money. I've spent years living within my comfort zone, where I'm familiar. Madrid is big. REALLY big. And immensely beautiful. I might not fall in love with it today, or tomorrow, or on that day I'm bound to lose my key or get lost, but one of these days, I'm going to realize that this city is what I've needed all along. I can already see that I will grow into myself here.

So, cheers to an adventure that will be life changing in ways that I can't yet imagine. I'm psyched to see where I am one year from now. Adios!